We had some fine weather on Islay, and on Sunday enjoyed a glorious day’s walking. When we last visited this part of the world in May, we sat by the water at Ardfin, and gazed across the sound of Jura to some very good looking Islay hills which we had never ascended. So we decided to ascend them. The hills in question sit in a corner of the island that, in comparison to other parts of Islay, feels incredibly remote. Our walk started at Ardtalla and our route (North-West, then South-East) is marked by that wiggly red line:
This is a great walk, but it is not for the faint hearted. While the hills are not particularly high, and nor, at 10 miles, is this a particularly long route, the terrain — involving a characteristic mix of bog, rock, and waist-high bracken — is consistently challenging. . .
. . . but rewarding in every way. After tramping a couple of miles round the coast, we came down to the water to have a look at the old abandoned farm at Proaig.
. . . which is not quite as abandoned as it looks.
A tin roof and some rudimentary furniture make this quite a serviceable bothy, and the swallows nesting in the beams certainly seemed to like it. While I enjoyed the graffiti (“no writing on wall”) Tom found a notebook in which visitors had marked their recent presence in the building in pen and ink.
We were interested to see that Dave G had visited Proaig that morning, though we saw no sign of him — or anyone else for that matter — all day. Perhaps he had already returned to McArthur’s head and the otter.
After crossing the water along a conveniently placed girder, we began our climb.
This is where the walk got really interesting. The sides of these hills are steep, and that solid-looking heathery undergrowth is deceptive. Beneath the heather is moss, beneath the moss is bog, and beneath the bog is The Unknown. The Unknown may be water, it may be loose rock, or it may be a Nice Big Hole just waiting to sprain your ankle. Ascending up such hills can be quite a tricky business — very much like climbing up a large, slippery sponge. This is the kind of walking where one must look down frequently, to see on precisely what one is stepping. But I like watching my feet. There are amazing things to see.
I was not quick enough to photograph the fat cream-and-chocolate adder who appeared out of the heather, and the camera also missed the bright yellow lizard that darted across Tom’s boots. But that gigantic caterpillar wasn’t going anywhere, and neither were the fungi or the flowers.
I love the way that the peat and water that shape this landscape bring things to life in such outlandish colours.
There are incredible greens and browns and oranges everywhere you look. And the shades of rock and lichen are equally intense. Sun-yellows, reds and peaches. Quartzite, pink as a giant roast salmon.
When one reaches the tops of hills, one begins to look down in a different way. If the day is clear, there is the reward of a fine expansive view. And whatever the weather, there is that heady sensation of traversing the curve where the earth meets the sky.
Sometimes the point of a walk seems the prospect, and in this case, it was a delicious one: back across the Sound to the three paps of Jura. We could see the place where we sat three months ago, anticipating this superb Islay walk.
But I’m in a nuts-and-bolts kind of mood at the moment, and however great the prospect view, I think that its the nuts-and-bolts of this landscape — the things that I noticed by looking down at my feet — that I’ll continue to muse upon.
Yes, I did knit that hat. It is my new favourite walking hat. I’ll perhaps say something about it another time
Love reading about your adventures and seeing your beautiful photos.
Your knitting inspires! As a matter of fact, I just ordered some of Alice Starmore’s yarn (the Sea and Shoreline series) to knit a hat. I’ve never had the pleasure of seeing her yarn up close but since you and others like it so much I’m really looking forward to receiving it. I also ordered her book “Road Movies”.
Thanks for a lovely post!
LikeLike
Loved reading about your trip. Thanks for sharing your photos. Like others, I’m very jealous!
LikeLike
Lovely pictures – I like the way you see the extraordinary in the ordinary (me, I like walks with paths, so I can concentrate more on the view – but you’ve just reminded me of the treasures underfoot!).
By the way, am I right in remembering that you went up Sgurr Nan Gillean recently? We looked across to it from Bruach Na Frithe last week and it looks terrifying!
LikeLike
Wow what amazing scenery! I loved looking at your photos, very inspiring.
LikeLike
A Bothy book! Good Lord, I haven’t seen one of those for ages!
Very inspiring pictures, having just come back from two weeks in the Highlands, I’m already aching to return. Luckily I have a long weekend in Crainlarigh already planned for next month – bring on the hills!
LikeLike
Family legend has it that we had an ancester in the 1600’s who left Germany and shipwrecked off Isley for a couple of years. My great great whatever grandfather was so grateful to be safe that he took the name Isley. He returned to his journey to the Americas and here we are today. Thanks for the lovely pictures and stories of the land where my relative landed so many years ago.
Caryl
LikeLike
Hello again
I just love to read your vivid descriptions. They bring everything to life and what terrific snaps. The vibrant colours just leap out at you. I think I am suffering from another dose of ‘hiraith’ the welsh word for longing for one’s homeland.
LikeLike
The colours in the photos of the landscape ‘at your feet’ are beautiful – such subtle but unexpected combinations.
LikeLike
Can’t. Wait. To. Go.
LikeLike
I love your hillwalking posts :) I lived in Ireland for four years and was part of a hillwalking group there. The vistas and terrain sound so similar. (I cannot count the number of times I put my foot down on a very solid looking patch of bog and went in over the top of my boots!) Lots of fond memories…
LikeLike
always inspiring with your explorations and beautiful images. great hat too!
LikeLike
it’s a real treat to get these views, both of the little things on the mountain tops and the big. thanks.
LikeLike
amazing scenery—-wish I was there too
pat j
LikeLike
I concur that the hat is fabulous and I must admit once again that I am a green-eyed monster of jealousy at the beautiful hiking that you have in Scotland. Don’t get me wrong, Ontario has its share of beautiful scenery and there are plenty of lakes for me to canoe upon but it just doesn’t quite match up to the sheer breath-taking majesty that comes across in your photos. Thanks for sharing another of your walking adventures.
LikeLike
Gorgeous photos (and such dazzling colours!) of an incredible sounding walk. Thanks for taking us along with you…
LikeLike
your picutres are amazing as always & I’m loving your hat!
LikeLike
Sounds like a gorgeous walk. I’m *very* envious of you seeing an adder.
LikeLike
Such beautiful photos, thank-you! And very nice hiking hat!
LikeLike