One of the highlights of our Hebridean camping trip was a walk on An Cliseam (Clisham), and the tops that make up the Clisham ridge. This ridge, connecting the highest hills in the outer Hebrides, crowns the wild and beautiful landscape of North Harris. Our route was circular, and you can trace it on the map below, beginning at the green arrow.
The route follows a well-marked trail, then turns West at a small lochan to reach the grassy summit of Tomnabhal. From here Clisham assumes a thrilling, near-insurmountable aspect — all cliffs and gullies — but as you begin to climb up its steep boulder fields, a neat little gap appears, through which you can reach the top. You can see the gap at the centre of this photograph:
In cloud, the rocky summit is spooky and spectacular.
But the fun bit of the walk had only just begun. There was a swift descent West onto the bealach . . .
. . . and then an enjoyable zipping up and down along the ridge’s highest points, following the roller coaster of Mulla-Fo-Dheas, Mulla-Fo-Thuath, and Mullach an Langa as they twisted their way North. The cloud was low, but when we glimpsed the view, it was amazing.
Amidst all the gold and green and russet of these hills, the band of quartzite at the top of Mulla-Fo-Thuath seems quite unexpected. It spills its way like snow across the mountainside, white as the skin of a dalmatian.
I love what the lichen has done.
This horseshoe-shaped ridge walk is incredibly enjoyable — a little exposure, and lots of variety and interest. I would heartily recommend it to anyone (with reasonable hill-walking experience) as a great way to get a feel for these marvelous North Harris peaks. But do be warned about the particular route we took: what is not quite so fun (when one has been out in the hills all day and is looking forward to a beer and some sort of tasty snack) is the long return walk that it requires — particularly when the lower slopes are absorbing the effects of a couple months of very wet weather. We contoured round Mo Bhoiogadail (avoiding its steep side) through an ankle-twisting landscape, leaping boggy pools and streams, and trudging stoically through the oomska. Our walk concluded with a speedy two-mile march back up along the road past the Scaladale centre. You may find a better way.
These are fabulous hills. I am already looking forward to going back to Harris.
Dear Kate,
I stumbled across your blog by Googling hikes on Harris, and got completely absorbed – sidetracked from my exploration of Lewis! – by reading your posts.
I was blown away by your determinism and tried my best to make it to the summit of An Cliseam, in your honour! Sadly, even with full mobility, I’m just too scared of heights and also had some pretty atrocious weather, but I wanted to send you a link to my pictures to inspire you to get there again.
http://sarahjanemuskett.blogspot.com/2010/07/scotland-highlands-to-hebrides_17.html
Loved the pictures of Calton hill – what a spot!
Wishing you all the best for a full recovery. Don’t give up!
Sarah-Jane x
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thank you so much from France for those wonderful pictures !
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paradise, in a way. so romantic. the road to the isles! thanks for the pix and the map.
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Your photography is so evocative – I love the summit in the clouds…. Simply beautiful.
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That looks like a fun hike! How long was the loop?
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Oh yes – I didn’t mention the distance! It was 10.5 miles / 17 km
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the colours and landscape are beautiful – so different from what i am used to in the pacific northwest of canada!
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Such beautiful landscape. Its like all the books I read growing up coming to life and given a place.
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Stunning! Makes me a bit sad that I’ve left the UK without getting to experience more of its natural beauty… but in the future maybe!
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We were just north of there in Lewis recently, and yes, boggy it was – but very beautiful!
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Wow, I love all the photos but that last one is stunning!
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Me too! That little movie works really well, too, giving a real sense of the drama of the landscape and weather.
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What an epic landscape to have walked in.
I love your descriptions of the route along the hilly horseshoe and the terrain itself.
I also enjoy the foreboding sense of bogs, wintry cloud-cover, wind and sog that pervade. Well done on making it back home through the oomska, and for bringing us such an evocative account of the journey!
I love reading about your walks.
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