One of the things I love most about hand-knitting is its natural combination of the analogue and the digital: here is a domestic craft, whose basis is a set of very “traditional” skills, tools and materials, whose contemporary vitality relies on digital spaces and resources. We connect online to our knitting friends worldwide, we download digital patterns, we take zoom classes, we stream events, we follow video tutorials. And if hand-knitting is now increasingly defined by digital environments, so it can also act as a medium to explore and interrogate the complexities of the algorithmically driven world in which we all reside. Ottilia Westerlund’s Anti-Surveillance Jumper is a project that just does that: using stranded colourwork to create a garment that might be interpreted and mis-interpreted by facial detection software. There is so much that I love about this project! It’s a piece of art that brilliantly literalises the intersection of the physical and the digital at which the craft of hand-knitting now finds itself; it’s a project that resonates within important current debates about (for example) the ethics of live facial recognition; and it’s also just an incredible hand-knit which looks amazing. The Anti-Surveillance Jumper is here to kick off our Wednesday series of colourwork conversations, together with its designer, Ottilia, who will tell you all about it.

In my day job, I work in software engineering, specifically looking at how to make code secure. I’m also a crafter of all sorts, knitting being my favourite. Knitting patterns are surprisingly very much like algorithms, and there is an amazing history of knitting and surveillance. But I had a thought – could yarn be used to avoid surveillance? I set out on a project to test my theory. I had never written my own knitting pattern, nor did it seem like anyone else had ever tried to knit something like this, but surely… it couldn’t be that hard?

I had come across Hyperface a couple of years earlier, and I knew it would be a great base for this project. It is a prototype for a “false-face computer vision camouflage pattern”, and was created by Adam Harvey in 2016. The pattern consists of black and white blobs, which tricks some facial detection algorithms into seeing them as faces. It is harder to detect the real face, amongst all the numerous faked faces the algorithm sees.
Facial detection is the step before facial recognition, which is used in various ways. There are benign purposes like unlocking your phone, but there are many controversial use cases. It is used on the streets and in shops, tracking everything from your opinion to a billboard to your attendance at work, as well as for law enforcement which often leads to mistaking innocent people as criminals.

Anyway – I looked to see if anyone had tried to knit Hyperface, or anything similar, but could not find anything. It seemed like the perfect base for my jumper, so I set out to start transforming Hyperface into a chart. I began by editing the image to be black and white, and removed the grayscale pixels in the original pattern. I was aware from the get-go that this was going to be a tedious project, and I didn’t need various hues of grey yarn to carry with me in each round. After all – this was not a nice Fair Isle project with a sensible two colours per round, it was a strange image designed to trick computers. I then pixelated it – the pattern had various pixel sizes, but I needed them to be consistent in size to translate into stitches. Next step was to calculate how many stitches one repeat of the pattern would be, in order to turn it into a knitting chart. As it was my first self-drafted jumper, I looked at lots of bottom-up jumper patterns that used 4.0mm knitting needles, and calculated an average number for my size. Once this was all done, it was time to find some online tool that would create a knitting chart. I tried a bunch of different ones, but ended up going with StichFiddle.

So, by now I had edited the original pattern quite a lot, and was unsure whether facial detection algorithms still would work. I knew that Hyperface was designed to match a very specific facial detection algorithm from a programming library called OpenCV. I decided to run the knitting pattern through this algorithm to check what would happen . . .

It was now time to start knitting ! I had never knitted a jumper without a pattern or written a pattern in general. But boiling a jumper down to its basic elements, it is just three tubes with various holes and stitches picked up, right? So that is what I did. I steeked the arm holes, as the last thing I wanted to do was colour-work this complicated on the reverse side.

In all honesty – the pattern was not very fun to knit, because it was not meant to be hand-knitted. There’s no nice repetitive pattern, so you always have to keep track of where you are in your chart. I was longing for just one repeat, just to not have to stare into this printed out copy of the chart. I frenetically crossed out each line to keep track of where I was.

For the sleeves, I simply made the colourwork pattern up as I went along. There was no point in following my chart since the sleeve’s surface area would be too small to trigger the algorithm. And so, I just knitted away on my anti-surveillance jumper. But there were so many more fun things to make instead, mittens for my friends, blankets for my nephew, Fair Isle hats. Anything but this dreaded jumper . . . . After a year, I finally finished the project.

So did it work…? Well, sort of! It works on the intended algorithms, and I tested it in a few different ways. I tested it using OpenCV again, this time on the knitted item. I also tested it on another tool called Vframe, using the same algorithm.

However, the specific algorithms this pattern tries to match are not used often anymore, and they have often been replaced with more advanced technologies. It does sometimes work, as you can see here, where a “classic smile” has been detected.

It is worth pointing out that this jumper is probably not going to let you avoid surveillance in real life. As mentioned, the idea is only to trick computers into thinking that there are faces that don’t actually exist in reality. This project was all about the process, and was definitely worth it in the end – I learnt about facial detection, about making knitting patterns, and I also ended up with a funky new jumper.

. . . and hopefully I made people think about surveillance along the way!
Thanks so much for telling us more about your process, Ottilia! And for making your brilliant work freely available on Ravelry.
I love this jumper and the way it was designed. As someone who is new to knitting, but who has been following this blog for sometime, I was fascinated by the process. I am an experienced dressmaker and can ‘hack’ most patterns to turn them into something more to my liking and from this can see that you can take a basic structure and then create the pattern that you want on it.
As someone who is knitting the Powdermill cardigan, it wasn’t until I had internalised the pattern that I could relax into the knitting. I can absolutely see how you can not relax into the surveillance jumper.
I wonder if in this club we will get the opportunity to have a blank chart and choose some colours of our own and colour the chart in to try out different combinations.
it is a great club and I am really enjoying it.
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Glad you are enjoying the club! And I do think some blank charts might be on the horizon…
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Such a clever concept & so successfully accomplished. An amazing marrying up of 2 very diverse interests; who would ever have thought that a knitted jumper could confuse such technologically advanced software.
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Oh, I so love the actual club – for me the best since Islay. I just read todays essay, which made my heart sing with joy because of all the colour and photography.
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Amazing, fascinating and a gorgeous piece of work! Love the thought process and determination… Just wonderful
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Thank you! Love it! It is so cool. Love the marriage of technology and crafting.
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A real cyber punk knit! In the novel Zero History by William Gibson, there is a tshirt worn to fool facial recognition software. Only this goes one step further and works because of a ‘backdoor’ in the software, put there by collaboration of agencies such as government. When the software ‘sees’ the image on the tshirt, it automatically stops recording. It is described as ‘the ugliest shirt ever’ because the design has to be so strident and hideous that (a) the software cannot miss it and (b) nobody could accidentally design and wear something that would trigger it! Only the select few, in possession of this garment, can hide from the cameras (whilst presumably being extremely visible to anyone physically present).
I assume (but who really knows?!) this backdoor is just fiction, however it could make a useful escape for anyone whose colour work goes hideously awry: just find a friend or relative who likes cyber punk and give it to them for Christmas with a copy of the book, haha!
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I love Ottilia Westerlund’s anti-surveillance jumper so much! There is something incredibly exciting about what happens when we take a concept and push ourselves to realise it in the medium of hand-knitting. And I love the ingenuity and problem-solving – the determination – in this process, here. How difficult and unintuitive it must have been to actually knit this jumper, but also how powerful to reinforce the intention/idea of the project with every tricky stitch! The end results are amazing, both aesthetically and in terms of how they actually work with the AI they were created to subvert. The aesthetic of this project reminds me of QR codes and digitised and pixelated imagery – increasingly pervasive digital infringements on our daily lives – and pressure to interact with the world through a smartphone. It’s really powerful to see the face recognition software and how it interacts with this jumper. Perhaps – most excitingly – I wonder what conversations wearing this jumper will spark? I think it’s sure to instigate many thoughtful interactions.
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Yes, “ingenuity and problem-solving” with a generous dose of “determination” and perseverance. Thank you, Felicity Ford for expressing exactly what I was thinking as I read this truly fascinating and unique contribution to the Allover Club. It’s going to be a wild ride!! Thank you Ottilia Westerlund for an insight into your non-conforming, brilliant mind.
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Excellent in every way. I love the breadth of experience knitters have and what they do with it. Thanks for making me appreciate the fact that I can (and do ) knit and broadening my view of the world ❤️
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I love your concept and your journey. No way I would ever knit this, but I would definitely make it up as a top if it was available as a knit print. Any chance of providing a pdf or jpeg to send to a local print your own fabric design?
I also think some indie fabric designers might be interested.
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Amazing work to create the sweater. I can understand how tricky it was to knit!
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I’d like to get a copy of Bluestockings. Is it available in the U.S., or could I order directly from you? I’m somewhat technologically challenged
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Fascinating article on knitting and surveillance: I had no idea! Thanks…another rabbit hole down which to disappear!
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Beautiful! I now know what to make for my IT-son! Lovely article. Thank you!
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Amazing!
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Brilliant! And a super cool sweater! I just came across anti-surveillance make-up used by activists. Though doing that could easily be lifesaving in many countries and on many occasions now and in days to come, it’s also incredible artwork! I was excited to see the topic here today. Thank you for your insights and sharing this awesome sweater. I want it – I’m just not sure, if I’d be patient enough :-)
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Brilliant mind for this pattern and so fun too! I would wear this jumper for sure!! Your process is truly taking your work into your play into a whole new realm ;-)). Thanks for finishing it and sharing this project. Love it.
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Very cool, great original interpretation! Thank you for sharing!Tammy P
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Fantastic. I now have a knitting project for a special someone who practices law in the field of privacy. Kudos to you for stepping out and designing a knitting pattern.
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Absolutely fascinating. Thanks.
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This really brought a smile to my face! 😉
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LOVE seeing the passion made manifest. What a trip!! great follow through with the entire process.
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Fascinating idea I would never think of!
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Wow! Totally admire Ottilia’s persistence too.
Let’s all knit one, then turn up for an important protest and pass ‘unrecognised’, maybe in 2024?
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I really loved this post, the jumper, and Ottilia’s voice. I love the thoughtfulness behind it and the way it engages us to dig deeper. (I also found that the images reminded me vaguely of sugar skulls, and so found it appropriate that this was released today, on the Dia de los Muertos.)
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Wow! So creative and subversive! Combining the traditional and technology, absolutely love it! Kudos!!!
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i never even noticed the faces in the sweater until you showed the boxed outlines of them. I’d be a terrible surveillance officer.
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Wow, what a fascinating project! I love the idea of it and I’m really impressed by your patience!
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Love this! I learned so much. We’ll done and a ‘classic smile’ from me.
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This is absolutely fascinating. I’ve read it through twice already. It certainly made me think a lot about facial recognition. The sweater is a work of art. A wonderful first blog for the Allover Club. Thanks
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Wow, as others have said, so different . So very inspiring!
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This is so cool! And the finished item looks really good as well – you would never guess what it’s based off. I could kind of see some slightly creepy-looking faces in the pixelated version of the chart, but in the knitting I can barely find them. It’s interesting that the algorithm still can.
Ottilia’s comments about the pattern not being a good knitting experience reminded me of what the test knitters for SkyKnit (machine-learning generated knitting patterns) said about how difficult the patterns were to follow since they had none of the intuitive symmetry that human generated patterns have.
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Very cool! I love the technical knowledge Ottilia brought to this project about how the software works. Seeing each image where the software detected faces is kind of chilling! A tedious knit, I’m sure, but it looks amazing. Thanks for sharing!
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what an incredible inspiration source for a knitting project! It has certainly opened my eyes to thinking outside the box for inspiration for designs that I sometimes doodle but rarely bring to fruition. thank you.
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so Cool! Bravo!!!!
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This is fabulous! I love the finished piece, and its inspiration is fascinating. A lot of work, but a very unique conversation-starter indeed!
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Love this article. Never much thought about FR before, but I am thinking about it now!
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Such an interesting article! Kudos to you for your imagination, diligence & knitting skills.
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Fascinating! Thank you so much for sharing the development and story behind your design, Ottilia. I love how you used knitting as social commentary with a thought provoking message. And also thank you to Kate for curating these blogs. Loving the journey as part of the Allover Club.
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Fascinating idea and very impressive implementation. Wow!
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What a fascinating project! And what a splendid example of knitting together a traditional craft with current technology and social issues! Thank you for sharing this.
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That is the coolest thing I’ve seen in a long time! Thank you for all the explanations, and for making the pattern available. I’ll start it straight away!
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Thank you so much for sharing this! It made my day.
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