While Tom made piccalilli, I thought about pickles in Rushdie and Arundhati Roy, and then spent a happy couple of hours investigating the condiment’s eighteenth-century origins. The earliest instance I could find of a recipe resembling what we now know as piccalilli, was in the 1768 edition of Hannah Glasse’s Art of Cookery, where it is listed as Paco-Lilo. I also discovered a picca-lillo recipe in Mary Smith’s Complete Housekeeper (1772). In numerous other eighteenth-century cookery and housekeeping books, it appears as Indian Pickle: a name which gives you some sense of its obvious colonial-imperial origins, and explains the mangos of these early recipes.
Recipe for Indian Pickle, from Susanna Macinver’s, Cookery and Pastry, as Taught in Edinburgh by Mrs Macinver (1784)
As Indian Pickle morphs into piccalilli in nineteenth-century cookbooks, so the colonial fruits disappear from the recipes, which predominantly feature domestic produce: cabbages, cauliflowers, apples, plums. Turmeric is still crucial, though . . .
. . . and in Tom’s version, the chillis are definitely key.
This stuff really is delicious, and bears no resemblance to that cornflour stuffed, radioactive-looking gloop that goes under the same name at the supermarket. Tom says it is definitely at its best with some home made bread, a good cured ham, and a tasty ale. I’m off to test this proposition. Cheers.
catching up on blog reading … fabulous “cutout” doll sweater above …. love the blog … but OMG — I’m an American that could eat Picalilli out of the jar. Thanks for the great photos!!
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Can I second the request for recipe details (and the recipe/reference for the Christmas mead). I made the pear and ginger cake after seeing it here, in fact yesterday I made it with plums, and it was yum! So please, some more details!
Jill
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Those tiny jam pots in the stove look so precious, I’m sure the contents are delish!
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Oh, this looks so tasty! My mother used to make shelves and shelves full of pickles, jams, tomatos, etc. every fall. Nothing like making it yourself.
~Emily
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Tom’s homemade Piccalilli looks great – I have been meaning to make some for ages. I had never thought about the colonial heritage of pickles – I still associate pickling and smoking with reading the Little House on the Prarie books. I also imagine a fine strong cheese would also work well with the bread-ale-ham proposition. Perfect fare for berloody cold february.
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phwoargh! Any chance of a recipe?
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Which store bought Piccalilli do you rate the highest? Obviously you can’t beat the real thing, but if you HAD to buy one, which would it be?
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I have just been reading “Taste – The Story of Britain through its Cooking”, and this book ascribes a version of the pickle to Ann Blencowe, called “Picklile Lila”, from her household book written in the early 1690’s. It is certainly a long lasting favourite. (Personally, I think it is pretty good made with mango)
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Ooh – 1690 – thanks for the reference!
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I have never seen nor heard of such a thing and I have doubts as to its tastiness but I am think perhaps I will make some and try it. If I don’t like it, I have a neighbour who loves all food and will happily eat anything.
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That looks really good…
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There was a great James Herriot story about how he had to choke down some very fatty bacon and the only way he could do so was with heaps of piccallili. That’s what I always think of when I hear that word, as it’s not a common condiment in Canada.
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